Cuba

Day 7: Havana

The day finally arrived! We were to dock in the Port of Havana. Mom and I woke up early to watch as we entered the bay. From our ship the city looked like any other port city, tall buildings as far as the eye could see. There were large cranes scattered around giving the illusion of modern construction. As we neared closer, it became apparent that the cranes had not facilitated new construction in decades. From afar buildings seemed in good condition, but a closer look revealed decay.

In the early morning light, we saw fishermen appear to cast their lines, and some took out phones to catch a photo of our arriving ship. As we ate breakfast in the dining room, we witnessed the city come to life and more cars cluttered the road and the lines for the bus grew long. We returned briefly to our cabins to apply sunscreen and retrieve our passports and visas. It was obvious that Havana had a more substantial customs process than Santiago de Cuba's hut.

The disembarkation process was well organized and took a total of 10 minutes. We exited the boat, queued up to meet with the border patrol agent, handed over our passports and visa, then our photo is taken, and infrared thermometer measured our body temperatures. CLUNK went the stamp into our passports. Out we went thru the metal detectors and x-ray screeners for our bags, into the next line for money exchange. Our CADs were exchanged for 1.39 CAD to 1CUC, but no additional fees were levied. Down a steep staircase, and then counted off into groups of 40, and onto a bus we went.

Today our tour guide was Joan, a Havana native. He explain his name was pronounced Jo-Anne, but how could this be since he is a boy. Well, it turns out Yoan with a Y is a popular boys name in Cuba. However ,when he mother was pregnant there was already 4-6 Yoan's in his neighborhood. Then his mother saw Joan in a book she was reading. She asked a neighbor who said "Yes, it is pronounced the same", we didn't try to explain it was pronounced Joan in America, like Joan of Arc. It was his name after all.

Through the city we went. The decay was even more noticeable close up. What was clearly once Spanish splendor was now held up by a wish and a prayer. All of the building in Old Havana have been declared historical sites by UNESCO, so the facades cannot be altered, only painstakingly resorted, at the rate of 2 buildings a year. UNESCO offered the financial resources to restore, but stone masons are in short supply. We cruised by the National Theatre, Central Park, several town squares, the Presidential Palace which now functioned as the Museum of the Revolution, and the adjoining plaza celebrated the Bay of Pigs victory with aircraft and missile displays. Then around the baseball fields, University of Havana, and on to a small neighborhood off the beaten path.

Our first stop was a social community project of AEKC which provides social services for the elderly. We met with the owner and 5 participants, who proceeded to perform rehearsed songs, dances, a featured an 82 year old rapping retired ballerina. The tour continued next door to the family home of the director. We learned the program was founded by his grandmother, and chapter was financially tied to the local religious organization. We were not permitted to take photos in the home, but we met with antique furniture and alters to Santeria Orisha's and photos of Christ, and frescos of various virgins in both religions. The home was mostly original, with the attic open to the sky. There were several bedrooms which had been converted to photo galleries with tributes to the past. After several rounds of questions, we headed back to our bus and onto the next stop, Revolution Square.

La Plaza de la Revolucion was constructed during Batista's time as President. At the top of the plaza is a statue of Jose Marti. The square is surrounded by many government buildings, two of which have large iron sculptures of Che Guevara and Camile Cinefuegos. The plaza was completed in 1959 and was first utilized by Castro. He continued to use frequently. More recently the plaza was host to a visit by Pope John Paul II in 1998 and then by Pope Francis in 2015.

Up next on the tour was a stop at the cemetery. The Colon Cemetery, or Christopher Columbus Cemetery was founded in 1873 and is 140 acres of carrera marble tombs, catacombs, and chapels. It is home to many notable and infamous Cubans as well as sculptures by local arts. It was a hot, clear day, and our tour guide Evelyn was dressed for brunch, with an all teal outfit and matching hat. She took us on a 30 min walking tour, stopping by some of the most impressive carvings, notable gravesides, and even pointed out some locals practicing Santerian tribute to lost loved ones.

From the cemetary we drove by University of Havana, a baseball field, through the center of the city and stopped at Central Park. We got off the bus and witness dozens of people using cell phones in the park, a a vibrant discussion of baseball. Y locals. We marched across the street for a private tour of Gran Teatro de la Havana, the National Theatre of Alicia Alonso and home to the Cuban national Ballet. Ballet is regarded as the highest art form in Cuba, and all of the ballerinas are celebrities. The theatre recently underwent a huge restoration project that took 3 years. It reopened in 2016, and we were among the first to visit the theatre. Inside we learned about its construction, famed history, and visits by foreign dignitaries including Obama. The guide told the tale of the ill fated person who accidentally nipped the support for the chandelier in the grand ballroom. After the tour we climbed the many flights of marble stairs, without hand rails, to the top floor where we were treated to Rum Cokes and a view of the city.

Lunch was outside of the city at a seaside government event hall with several patios for large parties. We started the meal of rum and pineapple juice, a salad and very sad crackers. The entrees were much better, there was an option of steak or lobster. Two of us ordered steak and two ordered lobster. Here we learned about cows, which are not commonly eaten by the Cubans. Cows are used only for dairy, it is illegal for a Cuban to slaughter a cow for beef, only a registered government official could. The guide told us about the 1900s when Cubans were starving after the fall of Soviet Union, cows were tied to railroad tracks. Once they were struck by the train, people would descend on the animal for protein. It gave us a very vivid image of why people took a chance on coming to South Florida via raft.

Post lunch was our opportunity to shop for rum and cigars. Our guide took us to an old rum distillery, currently being renovated for future tourism. We spent a bit of time learning more about the rum making process and then we're let loose in the gift shop. It reminded me of a scene from Wall Street when everyone is clamoring and vying for a spot at the counter. We turn left and looked at the coffee, then the rum, and ended with the cigars. Knowing for people who actually smoke we bought a few for souvenirs and moved along. For those curious we did purchase Cohiba and Montecristo, we received 4 Romeo & Juliette's at lunch.

The next stop was at an art & craft fair, but we hopped off the bus early to explore Old Havana. We walked many blocks in the afternoon, and attempted to locate a chocolate store Allison read about. Sticky with sweat and sunscreen we headed back to the ship for a shower before heading out to dinner.

After some wine and a costume change, we returned to Havana. Our first plan of action was to hire a classic car. We dreamed of a photo in a pink convertible for the Christmas card, but learned quickly the Cubans are not good photographers. We did however have a wonderful ride with Jose, who has a daughter living in San Bernardino. He plans to visit her on his next trip to the States! Quick tip for future travelers: negotiate your time and fare with ANY form of taxi before getting into the car. Havana has several options from motorbike, to coconut pedi-cab, regular taxi, and classic car. We took a 30 mins drive for 20 CUCs. Also, it is incredibly easy to find a classic car, there are roughly 5,000 in the city of Havana. Local lore says if the open the good you'll find the UN. Many of the convertibles have been modified to be convertibles, and often the only original part of the car is the hood ornament or dash board panel. We rode in a late 50s red Buick.

Hungry for dinner and ready for authentic Cuban food from a paladare, a privately owned restaurant. Our friends on the boat recommended 304 O'Reilly, so that is where we headed. Upon arriving we were met by a crowd and learned it was a popular destination. The guy running the front door asked if we had reservations, sadly no we replied. No problem! He knew a place. He called over a local boy, gave instructions, and we followed closely behind. Twisting through the streets our new guide, Ray, like Charles he said and mimicked playing piano. He ask where we were from and if we spoke Spanish. I replied Los Angeles y un poquito. He was curious if we saw bears in California, only in the mountains never the beach. He stopped walked he laughed so hard. Our walk led us to La Familia, up three flights of tiny stairs, no hand rail, to a packed roof top bar. If we didn't mind sitting inside with the Air- Con we could eat now. So to a corner booth in the 22* degree we sat (Celsius not F).

We ordered a round of drinks; beer, mojito, and daiquiri's. Then for dinner we split two entrees: grilled chicken and a seafood platter, both with veggies and yellow rice. By now we determined that Cuban food was fairly bland compared to our usual Mexican Fare. Spices are expensive and hard to come by in Cuba, the food is never spicy, and there is no cilantro or garlic in sight.

After our meal we wandered, in hopes of finding ice cream. The heladaria in the Vedado district was packed when we drove by earlier. All we found in Old Havana was a pizza/ice cream shop, I ordered one scoop of strawberry and instead received pink bubble gum. Disappointment. Many of the bakeries had already closed for the day, so we could not buy a guava pastry to compare with our beloved Porto's.

With sore feet, from miles of walking, we headed back to the ship, eager for another day of exploration.